A luxury rural retreat steeped in the history and culture of its surroundings.
Just two hours from Lisbon, in the rolling plains of the Alentejo countryside, just shy of the Spanish border, lies São Lourenço do Barrocal. A 19th century farmhouse retreat set amidst a stunning backdrop of vineyards and cork trees, with so much old-world charm, it feels like a step back in time.
The 2000-acre estate has been in the same family’s hands for over 200 years and 8 generations, but was brought to life as a rustically chic luxury hotel in 2016. Still family owned and operated, São Lourenço do Barrocal is a truly intimate and exceptional rustic retreat. Spending a few days here unwinding is the perfect addition to your Portugal adventure and provides a very unique and authentic experience in contrast to the rest of the country.
Highlights
The food at São Lourenço do Barrocal is a highlight in and of itself. The two restaurants onsite, the namesake São Lourenço do Barrocal and the outdoor poolside Hortelão, both focus on farm to table cuisine deeply rooted in Alentejo tradition. Seasonal produce is sourced from the onsite organic garden and local producers and is served alongside home grown certified organic veal, acorn-fed pork, and fresh fish from the nearby Alqueva Lake. I am not sure if they have reached it, but the goal of the hotel was to be 100% subsistent, producing everything locally. Everything on the menu is perfection, I am not even a red meat lover and this place had me eating it every day.
An enormous level of thought and care that has been put into every element of the property’s existence. Combining elements of the past and present into the aesthetic, the focus on subsistence and preservation, bringing nature to the forefront through the gardens, vineyards and sourcing local fresh ingredients for all the food and drink, and the amenities and activities that encourage you to become one with the natural surroundings is what sets this hotel apart. It’s a place like this that allows you to really pause and enjoy, and that is why I would suggest this property to anyone going to Portugal.
Rooms
The 57 rooms and cottages are spread across the sprawling property creating a quaint feel to the place. Multiple types of accommodation are available, rooms, suits, one to three bedroom cottages, all with private terraces overlooking the surrounding meadows. Some of the cottages even come with their own kitchen.
The rooms are simple yet charming, oozing with old world elegance and respectfully paying homage to its rich history through the use of natural materials soft colours and a traditional decor. Vintage furniture, antiques and local artisanal object decorate the whitewashed walls while the red tiled floors and wooden doors and shutters really provide that farmhouse feel. Despite the tradition that has been kept throughout, guests will also appreciate the modern luxuries offered such as heated bathroom floors, plush linens, and Susanne Kaufmann amenities.
The rooms are all sizeable and have outdoor space, and while every room is unique to a degree, I can’t quite say one is better than the other. The only thing to consider is that, as the property is spread out, you do have to walk a bit on the property to get to the pool and Hortelão, but that’s part of the charm.
Amenities & Local Attractions
There are endless options available for you to immerse yourself in the local culture and surroundings.
The two pools (an adults only pool and a children’s pool, although when we were there kids were in the adult pool) are located close to one another in the same field on the one end of the property and uniquely positioned to blend right into the landscape. The adult pool is even built around a giant granite rock. Plush lounge chairs line the pool as well continue far beyond the pool down the field so you can escape to a quiet corner as well if you please. See the photos below so understand what I mean.
The winery is a sort of new element and plays a key role in the regeneration of the hotel. Guests can take a tour of the winemaking facility right on site and if you play your cards right, get treated to a private and absolutely charming wine tasting while watching the sun set over the vast landscape. We played our cards right and were just in heaven. I believe the experience was 25 euros per person and the experience went above and beyond, especially in the number of bottles of wine we were left to finish!
Guest can indulge at the Susanne Kaufmann Spa, equipped with four treatment rooms, a relaxation room, dry saunas, a hydrotherapy room with a cedar wood bathtub and a studio for group fitness classes or personal training. Guests can also utilize the spa facilities if they need to check out but would like to stick around the property, which we did as we di not want to leave.
No farmhouse is equipped without horses. You can take a lesson in the riding ring or set out on trails to explore the property, meet the cows, and get some breathtaking views of the surrounding area. If you are not so included to saddle up, like yours truly, bikes are available for guest to use on the trails. The entire loop is about 10km and is an absolute must, just bring water!
If you want to put your legs to work you can also hike the trails, walk the estate and take a tour of the organic gardens and bird watch.
The bar, a beautifully designed and really the only communal space, offers cocktail making classes using a variety of ingredients, all sourced from the onsite organic garden.
The hotel sits in the shadow of the mediaeval town of Monsaraz, a hilltop fortified village just 4kms away offering stunning views of the countryside and nearby man-made Lake Alqueva. While the town is small, it’s worth the visit. I suggest coming for lunch or an afternoon refreshment while taking in the views.
Lake Alqueva is the biggest man-made lake in Europe. Here you can relax and enjoy the beach, hike around it (the hotel can help you sort out your route), go fly fishing or hope on a boat for the day.
What to Know
The hotel’s amenities, specifically the pool and Hortelão, are season as Portugal does get cold in the winter, so if you are looking to enjoy the property to its fullest, I do advise visiting in the warmer months.
The pool is located sort of on its own wing of the property so no matter where your room is located, there is a walk to the facility. There is a small waiting pool for children and a larger main pool attached to Hortelão.
Getting There
Accessing the property is very simple. Renting a car is both easy and economical in Portugal. Alternatively, you can arrange for a transfer with the property.
As touched on above, the infrastructure in Portugal is seriously fantastic. The roads are so well maintained, gas stations are in abundance and immaculate, and the roadways are well labelled and easy to navigate. So do not hesitate to take the time to drive yourself around and take the opportunity to take in this beautiful country and all of its landscapes.
#HotTip alert!
Seville is just a two-hour drive away, so, after enjoying a tranquil stay at São Lourenço do Barrocal, hop back in your car and head to Spain.
